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England ’23 – Leeds Again

22 Wednesday Nov 2023

Posted by Steve Mayne in Opinion

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Cemetery, Leeds, Museum, Thackray

A quick rearrangement of the planned schedule due to the prospect of reasonable weather had us motoring north again to Leeds. Goodness, it’s a busy city.

We drove up the motorway again and into the east side of the city, to make our way to the Thackray Medical Museum, just next to Leeds’ famous St. James Infirmary. Parking at the museum was billed as “Pay and Display at the front of the building”, but there wasn’t a single space to be had in that area. If you’ve ever tried to park in or close to any major hospital in the UK, you’ll know that the staff and visitors to the hospital get there very early.

Parkopedia showed some car parks nearby, so we scuttled off, only to find that the supposedly free car park nearby was in fact a Morrison’s grocery store. We didn’t want to get a ticket for parking there more than two hours and pretending we were shoppers, so the good Mrs. M. downloaded the Euro Car Parks app, went through the process of buying an electronic ticket that allowed us legal parking there, but kept getting bounced back with an error. So much for that.

We motored back to St. James’ Infirmary and found its mega-sized multi-storey car park, and even found a space on the road level. That enabled us to walk through the hospital campus, around and through the loading bays, and back to the museum, which was just fine and dandy.

The museum itself was really good. Housed in what had been a workhouse, then part of the hospital, it’s aimed at younger people and takes you through medical care throughout the years. There was a part called Disease Street, where they’ve tried to recreate what nineteenth century Leeds was like, with the horrible housing, overcrowding, lack of sanitation, and back breaking work for all. Given we were in Leeds to look at where some of my ancestors came from, and they were from poor stock, it was an apposite exhibition.

Further around and we were able to chat with one of the volunteer guides, a former Anesthetist, who gave us a mini-talk about the dreaded Iron Lung, used for Polio sufferers in the fifties. That, and a few other things in the museum, should give people thought about vaccination. Who has Polio these days? Hardly anybody. Why? Because of vaccination. The museum guide summed it up when she said that people had responsibility for more than just themselves when considering vaccination.

Being a weekday, there were parties of school students moving around the museum. Noisy, for sure, but I think they were enjoying it.

After the museum, we stepped across the road and into the Beckett Street Cemetery, one of the large burial grounds built in Leeds as the population boomed (and died) during the nineteenth century. Our reason for visiting was to find the grave markers for a handful of my ancestors who lie there. On entering the cemetery, we were confronted with thousands of Victorian grave monuments, all blackened from years of soot, and looking fabulous in the bright autumn sunshine. The people that run the cemetery (handed over from Leeds Corporation), have a great guidebook and there is a trail to follow to find the local worthies. It’s a big place and obviously takes a lot of work just to keep it from becoming totally wild, but it was clear enough for us to find the grave markers we wanted to find. If you’re ever in Leeds, it’s a great place just for stroll.

Following that cemetery, we made our way to the University District to find St. George’s Field, the former Leeds General Cemetery, where at least twenty of my ancestors lie. Getting there was an issue, though. There are more cars than there are available parking spaces in Leeds, so every single available space is already taken. Cutting a long story short, I did find a place to park eventually, quite by accident and it was restriction-free. But, unless you have a Leeds city parking permit, you’re generally stuffed. Also, we were both taken aback at the number of university students walking about. Yes, it’s the university district, but the streets were full of young people making their way to and from the campus, and seemingly it’s a permanent state in term time. I guess it’s because most of the university buildings, and its students, are concentrated in a small area.

The cemetery has long since been closed, and all but a few of the grave markers have been cleared away, leaving a beautiful walled park area within the university campus. The main gate, still imposing, remains, as does the chapel in the centre. Many of the City’s poor were buried here, often ten or more to a burial plot, and some of those plain, City-provided grave markers have been laid down as pathways. We spent a fruitless half hour searching for Maynes but didn’t find any. There can only have been a fraction of the original markers used, given the tens of thousands buried there. Still, it was reasonable work on rapidly darkening autumn afternoon.

I was very pleased to have stood where the ground was full of the remains of Maynes, and families associated with Maynes, including the Linskills, the Longbottoms and the Pickersgills.

After the cemetery, we repaired to the old Public Lending Library, which fortunately had been converted into a pub. A pub for students. Boy, did we raise the average age when we walked in. We did have a chat with a first year student called Coren, from Wales, who was studying Civil Engineering in Leeds. He was such a nice young fellow, and his mother should be proud of him.

After a long day, we motored back to Holmfirth (disobeying the lady in the Navi system), and basically crashed out, although not without a couple of hours on BBC iPlayer first.  There was something we had to do though, but that comes in the next post.

England ’23 – Coronation Street

21 Tuesday Nov 2023

Posted by Steve Mayne in Opinion

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Cemetery, Coronation Street, Driving, Fish and Chips, Leeds, Manchester

Today we went to Manchester. Not to a trendy eatery, or a hot night spot, but to the set of TV’s longest running soap opera, Coronation Street.

The “Coronation Street Experience” is a tour of the actual set, a closed area in the part of Manchester known as Media City UK. A largish group of us was given a guided tour of the set, at least the bits they use to film the exteriors for the show, and jolly nice it was, too. The Street has been going since 1960, and I have watched it on and off since the late sixties, so there was a genuine interest here. The tour guide, Alfie, was quite good, being professional, funny and he found time to impart some little nuggets of information that I’d not heard before. He gave us some insight to the tricks that are used to make each corner of the set look bigger than it actually is, and how they give the impression that places are further away from each other than the reality, which is usually quite different. Of course, standing on the actual Corrie cobbles was the real treat.

The little exhibition area after the set tour was interesting, including such delights as all the dead character’s coffin nameplates, which was hardly mawkish at all. One big omission was the actors’ names, which were nowhere to be seen, perhaps in an attempt to continue the fantasy.

It was a fun morning, though, especially for the real fans.

I should mention the Imperial War Museum North, right next door. It’s free and while we didn’t see its exhibitions, we did buy some stuff in the gift shop. The museum’s parking, which was where us Corrie types had to park, was run by National Car Parks (NCP). They use a fancy system of spying your plate as you enter and then you can pay as you leave, or later online. One fellow hadn’t worked the system out, had driven in and paid up front. The system of course assumed that he was leaving and gave him ten minutes to leave before being given a penalty charge. Did I mention he was Irish? He did!

After the Street, we hit the M&S Foodhall that lies within the shadow of Old Trafford Stadium, home of Manchester United (boo hiss), and sampled some of Manchester’s finest traffic jams.

Then it was over to Leeds, across the Pennines, to visit the house I was born in on this very day, sixty-five years ago. I hadn’t been back since 1959, which is quite the gap, but at the least the place was still standing, and looked much as it did all those years ago (I don’t have that good a memory, but I do have the photographic evidence). Someone has taken the Blue Plaque off the wall, though… (If you know, you know). The good Mrs. Mayne wanted me to go and knock on the door and introduce myself, but that would be so far beyond my comfort zone that it doesn’t even bear thinking about. I took photographs instead, although even that was a bit dodgy.

As the sun disappears at about 3:45pm in northern England, the light was fading fast. However, we managed a quick dash to Lawnswood Cemetery to have a look at my Grandparents’ grave, something I’d never done before. Given that they both died before I was born there wasn’t too much of an emotional issue for me, but it was a significant task on my list of things to do. I also searched out another family grave (it wasn’t far away), which will add nicely to my family tree knowledge.

Driving in Leeds is a bit of an eye-opener, even on a Sunday. It’s not a huge place but the traffic is constantly heavy, and everyone else seems to be in a dreadful hurry. However, we burst out of the City limits, past Leeds United’s Elland Road ground (again) and headed south on the M1. As we cut across the hills towards Holmfirth, I made a mental not to take too much notice of the Google lady giving instructions, because she had some pretty odd routes for me to take.

My birthday meal was taken at the famous Compo’s Fish and Chip restaurant in Holmfirth. Compo is a reference to the TV show previously mentioned, of course. The food was nice, and the service good, especially given that it was a Sunday night. It most definitely would not have been open in Canada.

Back at the cottage, I made the mistake of trying to reposition the car on its steep, cobbled parking space and found out about the limits of tyre traction on wet cobbles. I discovered that the only way to do it was to take a run at the cobbles and try to stop before hitting the wall. What fun.

It was a long day, and an enjoyable day, and we ticked three things off the list, so that was good.

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